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HalfEatenPie

The Irrational One
Retired Staff
So, @MannDude may have asked a similar post, however this one's for me.

So for a long time I've only been using my wireless network.  My desktop has a wireless network card installed that I use.  

However, I've recently wanted to go more through a hardwire route since my wireless network is... in a nutshell, absolute crap (20 ms via WiFi is around 3 or 4 ms via LAN... this is a big problem).  

Hardwiring is not an option for physical reasons (unless I want to drill another hole into the wall...  Which I don't think the owner would be too happy with...  A long ethernet cable would work however would literally get cut/punctured when the door closes...  etc.).   So I've been considering a dedicated WiFi Bridge setup involving two raspberry Pis (since those are readily available and the only thing in the way/between them is a single thin wooden wall).  

I still have yet to plan this out further, but anyone have any suggestions or thoughts about this?  I do use some pretty network intensive services so that's why I've been thinking more "dedicated" WiFi system for myself would be beneficial.  

Anyone have any previous experience?  Suggestions?  @MannDude?
 

William

pr0
Verified Provider
​You could just bridge the eth on the RPI with the Wifi device, giving you a L2 bridge network.



​This setup will however not do more than 100Mbit/s due to the RPI Network chip, USB Wifi dongle and the CPU (if old model).



​I would just get 2 cheap DDWRT/OpenWRT routers with Gbit and A/N Wifi, though this will cost you 50-100EUR each.
 
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trewq

Active Member
Verified Provider
I use multiple WRT54GL's running DD-WRT in bridge mode and have them connect to my main wireless access point.


This allows for anything plugged into any of their ports to join the network. Never had an issue, been doing it this way for years.
 

HalfEatenPie

The Irrational One
Retired Staff
​You could just bridge the eth on the RPI with the Wifi device, giving you a L2 bridge network.



​This setup will however not do more than 100Mbit/s due to the RPI Network chip, USB Wifi dongle and the CPU (if old model).



​I would just get 2 cheap DDWRT/OpenWRT routers with Gbit and A/N Wifi, though this will cost you 50-100EUR each.
Thanks, yeah I'm fine with 100 Mbit/s since it's not like I'm going to be using a full 100 Mbit/s (nor will I even have access to it).  Right now I have a single DDDWRT Router running as the core/main router, however recently the WiFi part has been pretty unreliable (cutting off at odd times).  

If it does comes down to purchasing routers, I think I'll just end up splurging on a Routerboard.  I've been eyeing those babies for years.  
 

drmike

100% Tier-1 Gogent
Powerline is neat stuff.  Comes with greatly reduced throughput, but if you are speaking of wifi, already dealing in such big reductions, so shouldn't matter.

Finally ordered a new kit  (prior brand and model were the infamous very dirty and wireless transceiving disguised as powerline).  Easy install, no complexity.

TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT  --- $35 or less for 2 piece starter kit that should be widely available in Asia.

Throughput wise these yields the following, with the realization that they are on different fuses in the electric panel, the other side is connected via gigabit wired into a gigabit switch:


[ ID] Interval       Transfer     Bandwidth

[  3]  0.0- 5.0 sec  11.6 MBytes  19.5 Mbits/sec

[  3]  5.0-10.0 sec  10.5 MBytes  17.6 Mbits/sec

[  3] 10.0-15.0 sec  10.4 MBytes  17.4 Mbits/sec

[  3] 15.0-20.0 sec  10.5 MBytes  17.6 Mbits/sec

[  3] 20.0-25.0 sec  10.4 MBytes  17.4 Mbits/sec

[  3] 25.0-30.0 sec  10.0 MBytes  16.8 Mbits/sec

[  3] 30.0-35.0 sec  8.88 MBytes  14.9 Mbits/sec

[  3] 35.0-40.0 sec  9.00 MBytes  15.1 Mbits/sec

[  3] 40.0-45.0 sec  9.50 MBytes  15.9 Mbits/sec

[  3] 45.0-50.0 sec  8.38 MBytes  14.1 Mbits/sec

[  3] 50.0-55.0 sec  9.50 MBytes  15.9 Mbits/sec

[  3] 55.0-60.0 sec  8.88 MBytes  14.9 Mbits/sec

[  3]  0.0-60.2 sec   118 MBytes  16.4 Mbits/sec



If you can live with throughput like that, then it's quite good.

Latency wise, they add to such.  Straight wired to gigabit instead and through 2 switches < 1 ms always.  Over powerline, about 3.6ms.   That's not much / not too high, but a packet going other mediums can go quite a far ways in 3-4ms.
 

Kenshin

Member
Verified Provider
Not too sure, but it's an apartment complex.  That could possibly open up some problems.  

Maybe I should just take a sledge hammer to the wall...
It's encrypted, throughput and stability is generally higher than Wifi. If you can go cable that would be ideal but otherwise try Powerline > Wifi.
 

HalfEatenPie

The Irrational One
Retired Staff
It's encrypted, throughput and stability is generally higher than Wifi. If you can go cable that would be ideal but otherwise try Powerline > Wifi.
Hm... it's definitely something to consider then.  However I'm still a bit skeptical about it.

How much of a latency overhead does it usually run?  
 

drmike

100% Tier-1 Gogent
Hm... it's definitely something to consider then.  However I'm still a bit skeptical about it.

How much of a latency overhead does it usually run?  
See my post above about the latency.  If you need something specific, toss me a command to run and I'll give you the output data.
 

HalfEatenPie

The Irrational One
Retired Staff
See my post above about the latency.  If you need something specific, toss me a command to run and I'll give you the output data.
Actually thanks just re-read your thing.  I guess I missed the part where you talked about latency.

It's a nice thing, however from what I can tell that hardware costs about 45 to 50 dollars for a basic kit (and it still has a US plug meaning I would need an adapter for local power type and all that).  
 

willie

Active Member
Is there literally no gap around or under the door?  You can usually fit a wall hugging ethernet cable under non-outside doors.
 
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HalfEatenPie

The Irrational One
Retired Staff
Is there literally no gap around or under the door?  You can usually fit a wall hugging ethernet cable under non-outside doors.
Don't know how your house is built but sometimes there is a small gap between the door frame and wall.

http://phuong.se/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/IMG_5793.jpg


If there is it is pretty simple to get an ethernet cable past and avoid getting it cut when door is closed.

The door has all the finish around it, it's also one of those doors that is actually pretty tighly done besides for the slight slit on the bottom.

After talking with a good friend of mine, I totally blanked they made those flat ethernet cables.  I've currently ordered one and we'll see how it goes!  Thanks to everyone for giving me their input!  
 
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